The Journey of Afro Hair: Beauty Standards and Discrimination

Today, beauty standards based on the European woman suppress the unique facial features, hair, and other physical characteristics of women worldwide. Almond-shaped eyes, dark skin, afro hair, and all other ethnic traits are forced to undergo a drastic and dangerous transformation to fit the ideal European image.

Globally, hair is the feature women spend the most time and money on to alter its color, length, and texture. In pursuit of social acceptance, Black women often resort to methods that jeopardize their health to straighten their hair. Because afro hair, which grows upward and out, is seen as a problem—especially in America and Europe—that shouldn't be left in its natural state and must be "controlled." It's deemed inappropriate in school settings and "unprofessional" in the workplace.

In many African countries, women also often choose to straighten their hair or wear wigs, believing it enhances their beauty and social status.

Michelle Obama’s Hair

The "natural hair movement," started in the 1960s by Black Panther revolutionary Angela Davis, symbolized the liberation and cultural affirmation of African Americans. Although this movement regained popularity in the 2000s, wearing afro hair in its natural state today can still be a risky choice.

Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie once said of Michelle Obama's straight hair:
“I actually don't wish that Michelle Obama had natural hair because then Barack Obama wouldn't have won, and that would have been a great loss for the world. When her daughters were younger and wore their hair in twists, they were viciously attacked. That’s the ugly side of American populism.”

Indeed, Michelle Obama, who did not wear her hair natural or in braids during the election campaign or her years in the White House, stated that "the American people weren't ready for it."

Michelle Obama's hair choice is a reflection of the pressure Black women in the West face. The roots of this pressure stretch back to the colonial era. The perception of European superiority, which underpins the disdain for afro hair, explains why the struggle for the Black woman is so difficult.

For centuries, afro hair, whether left in its most natural state or adorned with beads and flowers and styled in countless braided patterns, is now often labeled as "unkempt and messy" even in Africa if left natural.

Sometimes in the name of beauty, like women all over the world, and other times to avoid looking "too Black" or to appear more Western, Black women risk their health by using harsh chemical straightening products.

Widespread Discrimination

In the U.S. and some African countries, women who do not straighten their hair report facing discrimination.

According to a recent U.S. study, one in five Black women has been sent home from work because their hair was deemed "unprofessional." More than half of Black women feel they have to straighten their hair for a job interview, believing it won't go well otherwise. (1)

A study in the UK revealed that 59% of Black students feel uncomfortable or are ridiculed by other students at school because of their hair. Despite the Equality Act of 2010, Black men and women face discrimination in schools and workplaces due to their hair. Forty-six percent of Black parents say their children have been punished at school solely because of their hair. (2)

Harmful Chemicals and Their Consequences

Braiding afro hair, adding extensions to lengthen braids, and styling with various oils and organic products are among the most common harmless and natural processes. These methods don't damage the hair and allow Black women the freedom to wear their hair in its natural texture.

However, methods to straighten afro hair that don't use heat—namely chemical relaxers—contain very harmful substances, such as sodium hydroxide. This chemical can cause burns and various injuries. Hair relaxers can cause significant hair loss and scalp irritation, even after the first use.

Several studies have linked many chemical straighteners to uterine and breast cancers. Research involving over 33,000 women observed that those who used relaxers more than four times a year had twice the risk of uterine cancer. (3)

The danger persists for those who opt for wigs instead of relaxers, as wigs can also contain extremely harmful chemicals.

Respect for Natural Hair

Alongside the growing evidence of the health risks posed by hair relaxers, the resurgence of movements like the "natural hair movement" has led Black women to make more conscious choices.

According to research by Kline & Co, sales of chemical hair relaxers have plummeted over the last decade. Sales that brought in $71 million in 2011 dropped to just $30 million in 2021. (4)

However, while awareness of health issues is growing among Black women in America and Europe, causing product sales to fall, the African market continues to grow. With its rapidly increasing population, Africa holds unmatched potential for the cosmetics industry.

Considering this issue solely from a "beauty and aesthetics" perspective is insufficient; a racial perspective is essential.

This topic, which might seem "trivial" to some in the West, recently made headlines in France with a comprehensive bill aimed at banning hair-based discrimination. A bill against "hair discrimination" passed in the lower house of parliament, the National Assembly. France's move could be a significant step forward for Black women's hair freedom.

The bill, which aims to protect people from discrimination based on "hair style, color, length, or texture," could also set an example for other European countries and the United States.

---

Sources:
1 https://hbr.org/2023/05/how-hair-discrimination-affects-black-women-at-work
2 https://www.ohchr.org/en/stories/2023/01/its-more-just-hair
3 https://academic.oup.com/jnci/article/114/12/1636/6759686?login=false
4 https://www.forbes.com/sites/jaredcouncil/2022/11/04/black-women-going-natural-push-entire-industry-to-the-brink-of-extinction/?sh=528ebead1434

This article was originally published in Independent Türkçe, July 30,2024.